Choosing the Right Lapel Width

We recently covered lapel styles, we received follow up feedback through an email asking that once you decide what lapel style you’d like, how do you decide what exact size will suit you best? This is hard to answer since it’s really not set in stone and it boils down to your specific body size and what you are looking for; do you want to make a statement? Follow what’s in style right now? Look proper for work? Or make yourself look leaner? These are all questions one must consider when asking such a question.

Go Big or Go Home

As you may be aware already, wide lapels are what's in at the moment. It has been brought in by a wave of Italian inspired tailoring swooping suit designers. The lapels are usually massive and are 3-4 times larger then what you get on your average HM or Zara suit. This style was very popular here in western culture through the 70s. Today men are joining the wave for the very apparent benefits it provides the wearer, such as a more masculine (boss like) top end, such as is seen by Harvey specter. This is my particular favorite width (usually 4-4.5 inches), I personally like the aggressive lapel roll that accompanies such a wide lapel.

The Traditionalist

Here, we have the men that aren't swayed by trends that come and go in the menswear cycle. The men that wear the same style of clothing that 3 generations of men before them did. These are the traditionalists that stick right in the middle, neither trendy pencil thin, nor abrasively wide. An elegant width that suits 98% of all wearers and looks good in all occasions. It's not intrusive to your overall look and it lets states you like proper, proportional tailoring. The medium sized lapel (2.5-3.5 inches) is an obvious safe zone, one that if you’re not sure what size to go with, understand that here you will be satisfied. The medium lapel is something seen quite often in British tailoring, and as such is accompanied by the idea of elegant, timeless menswear.

The Thin Lapel

Don't buy this. These are the razor thin lapels that were made famous by the beetles. I find they don’t flatter ANY man, its also accompanied by the notion of cheap mass production. My best advice fr this style is to just stay far away from it

Conclusion

Lapels too big for the wearer

So in conclusion, I find that the best response (to the question presented) is to find a size that is suitable for your frame. This is a tradition adopted by English tailors for centuries, if it’s been around that long it must work. Ideally you want a lapel that is masculine and will fill in the gap from your neck to your shoulder line, but you don’t want to overwhelm this area by completely covering it. You want your lapel to flatter what you are wearing and ultimately compliment your suit, not overpower it.

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Thank you guys for reading,

Jose Zuniga